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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.